Prior to the Covid-19 pandemic, my husband and I spent Christmas in the bustling city of Tijuana. However, the 2020 Christmas season certainly turned out to be different than in years past. For one thing, unfortunately, we were not able to spend it with our Mexican friends, as we were unable to leave the Lesser Antilles due to the global health emergency. (see my posting: Ever Been Stuck on an Island?)
I had been corresponding with my friend Baja Charlie and
his family. They have been kind enough
to share their thoughts about the holiday season in Tijuana and its beautiful
surroundings on the Mexican peninsula of Baja California. Below is their kind contribution to my blog.
Baja California Peninsula
The Baja California Peninsula is a peninsula in Northwestern Mexico. The total area of the Baja California Peninsula is 143,390 square kilometers (55,360 square miles). To the north, it is bordered by the United States (namely the states of California and Arizona). The eastern border of the peninsula is the Gulf of California (also referred to as the Sea of Cortez and the Vermillion Sea) and the Colorado River, which separate it from mainland Mexico. Its southern and western border is the Pacific Ocean. The Baja California Peninsula has a total area of 143,390 square kilometers (55,360 square miles) and a population of approximately 5 million.
The Baja Peninsula is divided into two of Mexico’s federal entities: the Free and Sovereign State of Baja California (or just Baja California) and the Free and Sovereign State of Baja California Sur (or Baja California Sur).
Tijuana
The city of Tijuana is located in the most northwestern part of Mexico in the young state of Baja California. It is just a few kilometers from the Pacific Ocean. Tijuana shares the border with the United States of North America and the beautiful port city of San Diego. It is an economic and social border with a unique and attractive rate of exchange. When vacationing, it is possible to experience two nations and two cultures in a single trip by visiting both San Diego and Tijuana.
Since its founding in 1889, this border has been
characterized by its enterprising inhabitants.
These have learned to adapt to the conditions of the normally dry river
running through the city. Tijuana is
surrounded by hills and plateaus with very little vegetation. But, like its northern neighbor San Diego, the
scarce water is supplied by the generous Colorado River which is hundreds of
kilometers from the two cities. Thanks
to the water supply of the Colorado River, this precious liquid serves a
community of more than 5 million inhabitants if we add Mexicali, Tecate,
Rosarito, Ensenada, San QuintÃn, forming the 6 municipalities of Baja
California.
Celebrating the Holidays in Tijuana
Tradition is important on both sides of the international
border. Sharing with you, kind reader,
and describing the celebration traditions of this border is somewhat
complex. You see, it is a mixture of the
traditional and the new. These
traditions were formed from influences in both the pre-Hispanic period and
Mexico's colonial period, a mixture of indigenous and Spanish practices. Thus, there are customs from the different
regions of Mexico and also the strong influence of the United States and
Germany.
Thanksgiving
For example, many families with roots along this border
celebrate the traditional U.S. Thanksgiving Day (the 4th Thursday in
November) or as Americans call it “Turkey Day”. It is nicknamed Turkey Day because normally, the main meat dish served is turkey. For those families, it is customary to cross the border to San Diego and
do the shopping for the big dinner. Curiously, although it is not a holiday in
Mexico, people find a way to celebrate it nonetheless. No doubt, in 2020, the groups were much smaller than in prior years. Instead of in-person family gatherings, many calls were made via video conferencing apps to celebrate together. Foreign visitors to Tijuana, however, did not have any restrictions to enter Mexico, where hotels and restaurants
were prepared to receive them.
The COVID-19 pandemic certainly changed the dynamics of the
various festivities here in Tijuana. Due
to sanitary actions put in place to protect locals and visitors, the festivities still took place, but at a reduced capacity.
This meant meetings and other gatherings of more than 10 people were disallowed in restaurants and other places.
During the pandemic, it became common in Mexico, as in other parts of the
world, to hold business meetings virtually.
This also applied to social events and religious ceremonies. Even though we could not say that it was business
as usual, the spirit of the season was greater than ever. This is because of the genuine warmth of the
locals, the Mexican people, who found a way to be close to their foreign
visitors, albeit in a properly respectful and socially distant manner.
(To learn about my personal Thanksgiving experience in Germany and the United States, please click here.)
Christmas Trees
The arrival of the Christmas trees in Tijuana clearly
anchors and identifies the holiday season. Observing all the health protocols mandated, one was able to find several hundred places set up to sell the trees throughout different areas of Tijuana and on some of its avenues.
It is quite a family affair to plan the purchase and move
the pine tree home. There is nothing more exciting than a rainy day selecting the perfect tree each year.
(To learn about my personal Christmas Tree experience in Germany and the United States, please click here.)
Holiday Decorations
The city, businesses, and residents start their seasonal decorations practically on the first day of December and in 2020 there was no
exception. Shopping centers, hotels, restaurants, and banks usually display
huge decorated trees. These become a
lovely opportunity for a family photo of the season.
For children of all ages, there are also opportunities to witness special holiday parades
culminating with the arrival of Santa Claus and his reindeer:
Nativity Scenes
On the traditional side, the nativity scene is the most
important Christmas decoration. It is
typically set up by December 12 and left on display until February 2.
You will find Nativity Scenes not only in homes but also on display in certain parts of the city and in churches like the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe.
Tijuana Cultural Center
At the Tijuana Cultural Center, works such as The Nutcracker Ballet and others are traditionally presented with local and, on occasions, international companies. Check their website for the exact dates.
Virgin of Guadalupe Day
In Mexico, the Christmas season begins with celebrations
related to the Virgin of Guadalupe, the Patroness of Mexico, followed by
traditions such as Las Posadas and Pastorales.
The Virgin of Guadalupe Day, December 12, is a religious Catholic celebration and is the most important celebration of the year. It marks the beginning of the posadas, a series of processions and parties. The posadas are held from December 16 to the 24th.
On December 25, children in Tijuana receive gifts, which Santa Claus leaves under the Christmas Tree. The celebrations culminate on January 6 (Three Kings' Day or Epiphany) with the arrival of the Three Wise Men. The Wise Men also bring gifts that they leave in the children's shoes, which are put out the night before.
(I find this custom quite interesting because, in Northern German Culture, a similar custom takes place on December 6, where Saint Nicholas leaves goodies in the children's shoes. Click here to read about this custom.)
Regarding Mexican gift-giving customs on December 25 and January 6, Baja Charlie reports that in some families receiving gifts on both dates is enjoyed. On the morning of Epiphany, after opening the
presents, a round sweet bread called a Rosca
de Reyes is served.
It is baked with dried fruit and tiny images of the infant Jesus inside. Whoever gets one of these figurines in their slice must pay for tamales for Candlemas on February 2.
***Thank you, Baja Charlie and family, for the wonderful report above.***
I must admit, before knowing about this last tradition, we bought one of these delicious sweetbreads, the Rosca de Reyes, to take back home to Southern California with us. The taste of sweetbread reminded me of the tastes of my childhood in Germany. Imagine my surprise, in taking a bite and biting down on a small ceramic baby Jesus. It broke my tooth. What a way about finding out about traditions: at the dentist!
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